If you feed your dog plenty of RAW MEATY BONES then your dog will not only love you for it but will have a healthy set of teeth and no bad smells.

If you do not, your dog will require regular attention like de-scaling and removal of its teeth under a general anaesthetic.

Watch for hard, yellow build-up on the sides of your dog’s molars.
This build-up is called plaque. If left untreated it calcifies into tartar.
Tartar is like a shell coating the teeth.
If left untreated the teeth decay, become loose, painful and smelly.
Inspect your dogs mouth and smell the dogs breath regularly.

If you do notice the teeth require cleaning, take your dog to your Vet for a consultation and an appointment will be made for the dog to have ultrasonic de-scaling, if it is required.

This has to be done with the dog under a general anesthetic. If there are any loose teeth they will also be removed.
If there are any other minor problems your dog has, then while the dog is asleep the Vet can have a good look at them.
So, mention to the Vet anything else that is bothering you or your dog.

Chewing tennis balls and toys often leads to the teeth wearing down faster than normal.
So, watch for wearing if your adult dog continually chews.

TEETHING

The first teeth (temporary milk teeth) appear between 2-8wks of age.
The permanent teeth appear around 3 to 7 months of age.

There are several things you can do, both to ease the pain and control the chewing.

Make some chicken soup (low sodium variety or make it yourself) ice cubes and give them to the puppy.

Give the pup toys or dried hide toys to chew on.

Soak a clean rag in water, wring it out and then freeze it (rolling it up helps) and give it to your puppy to chew on.

Soften the kibble a bit with water.

Discourage biting on your arm or hand for comfort.

Puppies lose their teeth in a distinct pattern:

* First the small front teeth come out.
* Then the premolars just behind the canines.
* Then the molars in the back come out (and you’ll see adult molars behind those erupting as well).
* Finally the canine teeth come out.

Sometimes the adult canines erupt before the baby canines have come out.
This is called a retained milk tooth or “Supernumerary teeth”.

They remain firmly alongside each other allowing food to get between them causing plaque, gum inflammation and pain.

The only treatment is a general anesthetic and removal of the milk teeth.
This is often done when the animal is sterilised (neutered) or is having other surgery.

During teething, some discomfort, including bleeding gums is to be expected. Your puppy will want to chew more during this period of time, but it may also be too painful to do so (hence the suggestions above).

You will probably find few if any of the teeth your puppy loses, as puppies typically swallow them.

If you're new here, you may want to subscribe to my RSS feed. Thanks for visiting!

CAUSES:

Foreign matter irritation, lump or cyst irritation, entropion, dry eye, insect bites, infections or injury and other eye problems.

Always prevent the dog from rubbing its eyes and making them worse, you may have to put an ELIZABETHAN COLLAR on the dog temporarily.

TREATMENT:

You may need someone’s help to hold the dog while you look to see a problem.
If you can see visible foreign matter try to flush it out using sterile ‘Liquid Tears’ä as a lubricant.
If the dog is quiet enough you may even be able to remove it using a small piece of soft, damp cloth to wipe it away.

Using tweezers is very risky, if the dog moves the eye is damaged!

Sometimes the eye can become injured or has a degenerative problem and your vet recommends its removal. The surgery is better than an eye that doesn’t work. After the eye is removed the eyelids are stitched together and the hair grows back, you will barely notice. Dogs adapt well to the situation especially if the eye was barely functional anyway!
It is not as bad as it all sounds.
If it is better for the dog, do it!

GRASS SEEDS

Grass seeds can get lodged around the inside of the eyelids, but often the vet has to remove them with the dog sedated or under a General Anaesthetic.

‘Dangers around the home’ not medical.

LUMPS / CYSTS

If it is obviously a lump causing the soreness simply lubricate the eye with ‘Liquid Tears’ä until your vet can examine it for treatment or possible removal.
Make sure you prevent the dog from rubbing its eyes and making them worse.

ENTROPION

Entropion is where the eyelids of the dog are turning in towards the surface of the eye and the lashes rub on the eye surface, causing them to be irritated and weep. As the dog rubs its eyes it causes the eyelid to become more swollen and the eyes sorer.
This is usually genetic and specific to certain breeds. These are Retrievers, Rottweilers, Ridgebacks and Chows. But any breed can have this problem.
Again, prevent the dog from rubbing its eyes.

Have it examined by your vet. They may recommend corrective cosmetic surgery to help the situation. This surgery is very difficult to judge because if the vet turns the lids too far it could cause the opposite problem of ECTROPION, which is where the lids do not contact the eye surface enough. It exposes the conjunctiva of the eye making it susceptible to infection and irritation by the elements.
Because of the sensitivity of this surgery it may take more than one operation.

It is better to take too little than too much. Swelling of the skin around the surgery site also alters the initial appearance, once it settles down the effect of surgery can be judged. If it is left untreated there is a high risk of an ulcer forming on the surface of the eye, this can cause permanent blindness if not treated as the ulcer can scar the cornea.

DRY EYE

“Dry eye” is a condition where there is a lack of tears or a blockage of the opening of the tear glands and there is nothing to lubricate the eye.

The eye or eyes usually have thick pus covering them.

It becomes sore and itchy and the dog begins to rub the eyes. Again prevent further rubbing and apply ‘Liquid Tears’ä and bathe the eyes to ease the soreness and clear away the infection.

This relief is only temporary, not a cure, veterinary inspection of the eye /eyes should be sought as soon as possible.

Dry eye is usually examined and tear production measured using a paper test strip. Artificial tears, antibiotics and anti-inflammatory drops will be applied. Regular bathing of the eye / eyes will also be necessary.

This problem is most common in older dogs and toy breeds like poodles.

INSECT BITES

If around the outside of the eye can also cause the dog to rub at its eye.
Swelling would be obvious and a sting may be visible.
Prevent further rubbing, then consult a vet when you can. Drugs will be given to ease the reaction and protect the eyes.

INFECTIONS

Environmental infections or illness will cause a pus discharge from the eye and soreness. Take your dog to the vet for the necessary treatment.
Bathing the eye in a weak saline solution or just ‘Liquid Tears’ä does help until you get to the vet.

If both eyes are heavily discharging and the dog is off colour / lethargic take the dog to the vet ASAP.

However, for a slight white discharge in one or both eyes, bathe the discharge away with mildly salted warm water and flush with a few drops of ‘Liquid Tears’ä every 3-4 hours to cleanse the eye surface. This helps relieve a painfully dry sore eye. It may also flush a mild environmental irritation like dust. If no improvement then take the dog to the vet as it may need more precise medicinal treatment.

EYE INJURIES

If you see your dog get a penetration wound to its eye take it to the vet IMMEDIATELY!

Or if a sudden swelling on or around one or both eyes take the dog to the Vet IMMEDIATELY.

Prevent the dog from rubbing it’s eyes and making things worse by using an Elizabethan collar.

EYE PROBLEMS

Following are the most common forms of eye problems.

CEA

CEA (Collie Eye Anomaly) is the most common form of eye problem found in the Collie, both rough and smooth variety. It is also found in the Border Collie, Shetland sheepdog, and Bearded collie. It is believed to be controlled by a genetic cluster, or large group of genes, and thus, it is hard to control by breeding, and ranges in severity.

PRA

PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy) is common in MANY breeds of dogs (including mixed breeds), and is not isolated to the collie like CEA. PRA affects the entire retina and is the canine equivalent of retinitis pigmentosa. This disease manifests itself differently in different breeds. The most common form of PRA in the collie is detectable at early age (6wks and over). The form of PRA in Irish Setters is also early-onset. In Labrador Retrievers, on the other hand, the age of onset is much later, typically four to six years of age, making it much harder to find and isolate carriers in this breed.
PRA has been detected as early as six weeks in puppies, and these puppies are usually blind by six to eight months. An Electroretinograph can be used to detect the early signs of PRA.

All dogs affected with PRA eventually go blind. Carriers show no clinical symptoms. Symptoms are subtle, starting with night blindness, some eye dilation, to progressive blindness. It’s quite common to not notice anything is wrong until the dog is nearly completely blind. Pro-active testing is always recommended, especially for breeding stock.

GLAUCOMA

This is a condition where the pressure of the fluid in the eye increases until the sight is gone in that eye. If it strikes one eye, the other eye is likely also to be affected. Glaucoma is one of the leading causes of blindness in dogs. Any underlying problem that increases the fluid pressure inside the eye is the culprit, most of the time this is due to inadequate drainage of fluid from the eye (as opposed to overproduction of fluid). A few forms of Glaucoma are thought to be hereditary. Signs of glaucoma include reddened conjunctival tissue (red eye), weeping, light sensitivity, or even enlargement of the eye.
As pressure increases, the pupil can become dilated and the cornea cloudy.
Early diagnosis is critical to save the vision of the dog, and involves treating the underlying causes of the increased pressure if at all possible.

Once the retina is damaged and the sight is gone the options are as follows:

Inject the eye with a fluid, which kills the fluid producing cells in the eye, hence no further increase in pressure and no pain. This is not a guaranteed solution.
Remove the eye and sew the lids shut. (Probably the most practical).
Remove the eye and replace it with a prosthetic (i.e., glass eye).

There are potential problems with infection of the eye socket.

CATARACTS

Cataracts are relatively common in dogs and most are hereditary. An ACVO-certified veterinarian can easily detect these cataracts. Haziness or cloudiness in the eyes in older animals is often not cataracts. Hereditary cataracts can be found in many breeds of dogs and can be detected early in age, so all breeding stock should be screened for Cataracts before being bred.
Cataracts may be stable or progressive. In the former case, owners may never be aware that their dog has cataracts until or unless the dog is examined. In the latter case, the dog often adapts very well to the gradual loss in vision until a certain point is reached. General diagnosis can be done by Ophthalmoscopic examination; if a more detailed examination is needed, a slit lamp examination must be performed.
Surgery is the only option for cataracts that seriously impair vision.
Most surgery involves removal of the lens, implants are not typically done.
Recovery and prognosis for these dogs are generally good.

BLINDNESS

Dogs that become blind rarely have all that much trouble with it. Unlike humans, sight is not a primary sense, dogs would be much more upset at losing their sense of smell. Most people with a blind dog find that dealing with blindness is not difficult nor traumatic for the dog.

To avoid your dog’s confusion, do not move your furniture around (except for any piece that the dog does keep bumping into). Be sure the dog knows when you are near so it is not startled. When you go out on walks, establish habitual trails. Your dog will adjust quickly.

VACCINATIONS

It is recommended that ALL dogs have vaccinations to prevent the spread of disease and to protect YOUR dog.

These include:

CANINE DISTEMPER, HEPATITIS, KENNEL COUGH AND PARVOVIRUS.

Newborn puppies receive maternal immunisation against diseases from the colostrum contained in their mother’s milk (assuming the bitch was properly vaccinated shortly before the breeding took place).

Initially, during their first 24 hours of life, maternal antigens (passive immunity) are absorbed through the pup’s intestines that are very, very thin during those first few hours (this is why it is so important that puppies nurse from the mother during that critical time).

After the colostrum ceases (a day or so later), the maternal antigens decline steadily.

During this time, puppies cannot build up their own natural immunity because the passive immunity gets in the way. As the passive immunity gradually declines, the pup’s immune system takes over.

At this time, the pups should be given their first immunization shots so they can build up their own antibodies against them.

However, there is no way to tell when passive immunity is gone.

This is why pups should be given a shot every few weeks (2 - 3 weeks apart and a series of at LEAST three shots).

The importance of giving several vaccinations at 2-4 week intervals until around 16-18 weeks is that you maximize the chance of catching the puppy’s immune system as soon as it is ready to respond, minimizing the amount of time the puppy may be susceptible to infection.

IMPORTANT: The last shot should be given AFTER 16 weeks of age (4 months) to be SURE that the dam’s antibodies have not gotten in the way of the pup building up its own immunity.

You should keep your puppy away from all strange dogs.
If you know that a particular dog is current on its shots and not carrying disease, then go ahead and let your puppy socialise.

The same holds true for people.

Ask them to wash their hands before they play with your puppy.
It can’t hurt and it could save you a great deal of grief.

As your puppy gets its shots, you can slowly add more and more exposure to its life.
But keep in mind this is an infant and needs gentle care!

VACCINATION PROCEDURE:

The dog will not be fully protected until it has developed its own immunity following the vaccination courses. This can take up to 10 days.

* 6-8WKS OF AGE -
1st vaccination usually consists of Distemper, Measles, Hepatitis, Kennel cough and Parvovirus.

* 12-14WKS OF AGE -
2nd vaccination this usually consists of Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus and Kennel cough (Canine Para influenza Virus).

* 16WKS OF AGE –

3rd vaccination of Distemper, Hepatitis, Kennel cough and Parvovirus.

In most cases the final vaccination is only Kennel cough and Parvovirus.

After these series of injections, Yearly booster vaccinations are recommended to maintain full protection for your dog.

Adult dogs can receive a 4 in 1 booster, which contains Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus and Kennel cough.

This is recommended for dogs in high-risk areas i.e. clubs, parks and beaches.
Otherwise a 3 in 1 can be given for Distemper, Hepatitis and Parvovirus.

DISTEMPER:

It is a highly contagious disease, which attacks the respiratory tract, digestive tract, nervous system and skin cells.

The dog or pup develops a high temperature, watery then a puss discharge from both eyes, bloody diarrhoea, vomiting, have a dull and listless appearance, loss of appetite and coughing.

Then signs of nervous disorders like twitching, jaw chomping, salivation, Head shaking, Fitting, Blindness and Paralysis.

If untreated the pup will dehydrate very quickly, become very sick and it will die if veterinary treatment is not sought.

Prognosis depends on how quickly the dog is diagnosed and treated and which form of the disease the dog has.

When bringing in a very sick dog or pup ring your Vet Nurse to warn of a possible Highly Infectious Disease coming in.
This can help other puppies and older sick dogs coming in contact with such diseases.

It is best to wrap up and carry the sick animal into the hospital if possible.
Treatment involves intravenous fluids and supportive drug therapy. The animal requires intensive nursing.

Dogs that develop into the nervous stages rarely survive.

Prevention with vaccination is recommended.

INFECTIOUS CANINE HEPATITIS:

This disease should NOT be confused with human hepatitis. This is a highly contagious disease transmissible only to dogs.
Hepatitis is the inflammation or damage to the liver. It affects the liver, kidneys and lining of the blood vessels.

It can sometimes be hard to distinguish from distemper, as there are a variety of signs and symptoms that range from mild to fatal.
The causes can be VIRAL, bacterial, trauma, cancer or poisoning.
Only in the case of VIRAL HEPATITIS is vaccination effective.

Exposed dogs rapidly become contagious and remain contagious throughout convalescence.

High fever, bloody diarrhoea, possibly bloody vomit, lethargy, refusal to eat, jaundiced, dark urine and painful movements.
The dog can become light sensitive.

If untreated it will dehydrate very quickly, become very sick and it will die if veterinary treatment is not sought.

Prognosis depends on how quickly the dog is diagnosed and treated and which form of the disease the dog has.

When bringing in a very sick dog or pup ring your Vet Nurse to warn of a possible Highly Infectious Disease coming in.
This can help other puppies and older sick dogs coming in contact with such diseases.

It is best to wrap up and carry the sick animal into the hospital if possible.

Treatment involves intravenous fluids and supportive drug therapy. The animal requires intensive nursing.

Blood tests will also assist in knowing how well the liver and other organs are functioning and verify that the dog does have Hepatitis.
Urine tests may also be needed and sometimes the use of x-rays and even exploratory surgery of the liver.

Animals convalescing from Hepatitis require special diets, which are low in fat and no dairy products.
They also need to be fed smaller quantities more often to make the liver’s job easier.
Your Vet will explain any further nursing your dog requires.

Prevention with vaccination is recommended.

KENNEL COUGH (Infectious Para influenza virus) and (Bordatella bronchiseptica bacteria):

This is characterized by a harsh, convulsive cough. It is persistent, contagious, and often develops into secondary complications, such as chronic bronchitis. The dog shows signs of a cough in spasms and they bring up white frothy foam. Their condition is usually bright and they are willing to eat. (Unlike a dog with something stuck in its throat).

The coughing can last up to 6-8 wk.

Prognosis depends on how quickly the dog is diagnosed and treated, and which form of the disease the dog has.

When bringing in a very sick dog or pup ring your Vet Nurse to warn of a possible Highly Infectious Disease coming in.
This can help other puppies and older sick dogs coming in contact with such diseases.

It is best to wrap up and carry the sick animal into the Hospital if possible.

Treatment involves home nursing, antibiotics, and antihistamines and cough suppressants.

This disease can eventually be fatal especially in the very young, very old - with heart disorders, or already ill.

If your dog is exposed to many other dogs, or will be boarded at a kennel, it should be vaccinated against this.

The name is “Kennel Cough”, because it spreads rapidly under “kennel” conditions.

“Kennel Cough” is a generic name for a set of symptoms caused by a number of organisms. These include Para influenza virus as well as Bordatella bacteria.

Dogs vaccinated with the Bordatella vaccine can still get “kennel cough” because of all the bugs involved, but it tends to be much less severe.

Bordatella is a bacterial disease, which is easily treated with antibiotics.

Bordatella vaccine is squirted into each nostril of the dog and should be repeated semi-annually.

Para influenza vaccine should be a normal part of your dog’s regular shots.

The vaccination is not effective for the first 24 hours, so if you are getting your dog vaccinated because you will be boarding it, get it done at least several days in advance!

Prevention with vaccination is recommended.

PARVOVIRUS:

This is one of the most deadly viral infections for dogs. Young puppies that have not yet finished their vaccination schedules and dogs with compromised immune symptoms are most at risk.

The virus is a Highly Contagious disease which can be transmitted through direct contact or even on your shoes bringing it home.

Parks visited by many dogs are high-risk areas, as are unknown dogs that may be shedding the virus.
Some breeds for example like the Rottweiler is more susceptible to contracting this disease.

SIGNS:

Lethargy and listlessness, proceeding rapidly to almost uncontrollable bloody diarrhoea and vomiting, dehydration, laboured breathing and death.

TREATMENT:

The puppy must be taken in immediately to the veterinarian for round the clock monitoring and IV’s to replace the fluids the puppy is losing.
Supportive drug therapy and antibiotics with intensive nursing.

Prognosis depends on how quickly the dog is diagnosed and treated, and which form of the disease the dog has.

When bringing in a very sick dog or pup ring your Vet Nurse to warn of a possible Highly Infectious Disease coming in.
This can help other puppies and older sick dogs coming in contact with such diseases.

It is best to wrap up and carry the sick animal into the hospital if possible.

Isolation - Don’t let the at-risk dog be exposed to other dogs or their faeces.
If you have an area (house and/or backyard) that has been exposed to a dog with Parvo, you can clean it up with a 3% bleach solution (3 parts bleach to 100 parts water).

This is a recent disease, first noted in the late seventies. It is highly contagious and puppies have the highest mortality.

Parvovirus attacks two main areas:

GASTRO -INTESTINAL:

Severe depression, loss of appetite, vomiting.
Extreme pain, High fever follows with profuse diarrhoea.
No other disease comes close to matching the amount of diarrhoea.

HEART:

It affects the muscles of the heart, especially in puppies. Puppies stop nursing, cry and gasp for breath. Death can occur suddenly or after several days.
Puppies that recover often develop chronic congestive heart failure that may kill them several months later.

Dogs may have either or both syndromes. Treatment is difficult, requiring hospitalization; those who recover are immune.

There is a current upswing in Parvo infections. Make sure your dog is up-to-date on its vaccinations.
Don’t let a too-young puppy roam where possibly infected dogs have been (for example, in the park).

Contact with faeces or unvaccinated dogs are the primary source of transmission.

Some breeds seem to be especially sensitive to Parvo, such as Rottweilers.

Prognosis depends on how quickly the dog is diagnosed and treated, and which form of the disease the dog has.

When bringing in a very sick dog or pup ring your Vet Nurse to warn of a possible Highly Infectious Disease coming in.
This can help other puppies and older sick dogs coming in contact with such diseases.

It is best to wrap up and carry the sick animal into the hospital if possible.

If the puppy survives, he will make a full recovery. There are no lasting effects of the illness and he will be fully immune to the disease thereafter, assuming a healthy immune system.

There is a vaccine available, and you should make sure your dog is vaccinated.

A full series of vaccinations, with the last shot being scheduled for after 16 weeks of age is essential.

In some areas where Parvo is prevalent, you may need booster shots every six months instead of every year.

Prevention with vaccination is recommended.

Collapses from Heatstroke / Exhaustion can easily occur so assess your dog’s environment. Offer small amounts of water first, or it may vomit. If it wont drink, you will need to get it into a bath of cold water sponge the dog down, especially the HEAD, TOE PADS, ARMPITS and GROIN.

The skin is thin there and less hair helps the blood cool faster. If it does not cause more stress and discomforts try to lay the dog down into the water in a ‘drop’ position. Not a flank (side) position. Keep drinking water available but restrict it in intervals so the dog does not gorge it and then vomit it back again.

You have to think for your dog. The dog is under stress and does not know any better.
Keep offering water to drink, as the dog becomes more comfortable. Also use a cooling fan on the dog. If the condition of the dog is not improving wet it down all over and ring your vet for any further advice, then take to the vet ASAP.

DO NOT WRAP UP THE DOG as it will prevent HEAT evaporation!
If your dog does improve, allow it time to stabilise, before taking it to the vet for a check.
Always make sure wherever your dog is, that it has adequate water and air flow at all times. Cars are deadly for dogs in summer, they are mobile ovens! Even with the windows down. A shady tree is a much safer idea.

Here the dog walks with its head leaning to one side as if it is looking at the ground. The side that is tilted to the ground is usually the problem side. The problem within that ear is causing discomfort to the dog and can affect its balance and hearing. It may also be scratching at that ear which also causes more damage.
Get veterinary treatment when you can as these causes can lead to more expensive problems if left untreated!
CAUSES:
Ear mites, ear infection, grass seed or foreign matter in ear, haematoma.

EAR MITES can be seen with the naked eye or with the use of a microscope.
Your vet will do this for you. Treatment will involve applying drops to both ears and insecticidal rinses for the body as well. Mites can also live in the fur but they prefer ears.

EAR INFECTIONS can be secondary problems as a result of foreign matter, mites or injury (scratching). Your vet will look down the dog’s ear and identify the problem. If the dog is calm enough and the infection not severe the vet may be able to clean the ear out and remove any debris.
If not the dog will have to be admitted for a general anaesthetic where the vet can do a more thorough job with no discomfort to the dog. You will be given antibiotic tablets for the dog and it may be given an antibiotic injection as well.
Also ear drops for the affected ear. Because of the structure of the ear they remain moist so clearing up  infections can take a while.

FOREIGN MATTER can be a grass seed, hairs, water, sand etc.
After swimming or a bath the dog can get water down its ear and it will have a head tilt. It will shake its head vigorously to try to  remove it.

You may be able to soak up the water with a towel or cloth applied to the inside of the ear. Do not poke any cotton buds down into the ear unless you have been shown how to. It is still possible to  rupture the ear drum even though in dogs their ear canal is shaped like the letter ‘L’.

By gently using a piece of cloth wipe around the inside of the ear flap and the entrance of the ear. Massage the canal and the water should come out.

A secondary infection may still develop in the ear as moisture and bacteria in the water have an ideal environment in the dog’s ear. Dogs with long hair and floppy ears are even MORE susceptible to these sorts of problems.

Pegging the ears up together on top of the dog’s head (by the hair, not the ear flap) can help dry out the ears.

GRASS SEEDS

After a walk at the park or bush land or even in your own yard you may notice the dog shaking its head and with a head tilt.
If you suspect a grass seed quickly catch the dog and with someone’s help, hold it still while you look down the ear. Sometimes you are able to see the tail end of the grass seed poking out of the ear. Using tweezers quickly remove the grass seed. This is REALLY irritating for the dog, so do not hesitate or miss. This is why you need someone’s help. If the seed is too deep then the vet will have to remove for you.
Initially the dog is very irritated by the seed and if you are not home to see it happen you may not notice a problem for a few days. Once the seed is down the ear canal it settles into the wax. The irritation is less to the dog after that. In a few days a local reaction begins and the ear becomes sore for the dog. This may be the first signs you notice.
Veterinary treatment is all that can help.

HAEMATOMA of the earflap (pinna) is usually as a result of the dog shaking its head due to an irritation or infection in the ear. Some dogs are particularly prone to getting a Haematoma.
The earflap swells as a result of ruptured blood vessels in the ear flap. It is very uncomfortable for the dog and as pressure builds up it becomes sore. If left the blood inside the ear flap clots and then shrinks as it is reabsorbed. This causes the appearance of the ear to shrink up also. It is commonly called ‘cauliflower ear’.

Surgery involves lancing the swelling and draining the blood. The ear is then compressed with sutures to prevent further bleeding.
These sutures remain in place for up to 3wks as it takes a lot longer to heal and can re-occur after suture removal.

Premium pet food tends to have higher nutritional value. In particular, foods such as Science Diet, Eukanuba, Nature’s Recipe.
This means you can generally feed your dog a smaller amount of food.

Also, they tend to be highly digestible which means that there is less waste to clean up in the yard.
For these two reasons, many people feed their pets premium foods over grocery store foods.
But the decision is yours and many healthy, happy dogs have been raised on plain Purina Dog Chow.

FEEDING SCHEDULES:

There are two methods you can use to feed your puppy:

FREE FEEDING and SCHEDULED FEEDING.

FREE feeding is when dry food is left out all day and the dog eats as it wishes.
SCHEDULED feeding gives the dog food at set times of the day, and then takes it away after a period of time, such as a half hour.
In most cases, you are best off feeding your puppy on a schedule.
This better controls elimination when trying to house train. In addition, many dogs will overeat and become overweight on a free-feed schedule.
But for other dogs, such as dogs with gastric problems or older dogs, frequent small meals may be better for them. If you are unsure, you may want to discuss your particular situation with your vet.

We recommend that most dogs get the biggest part of their daily meal in the morning and another smaller meal at night. That way they have energy throughout the most active time of day and have a chance to burn off any excess energy without gaining weight.

The second smaller meal is to satisfy hunger and replace lost calories e.g.: highly active dogs, Sporting and working dogs. In the case of early starts for working dogs this may need to be reversed so as to avoid cramping muscles and fatigue